Chocolate gourmet dinner at Providores with Paul A Young
By Allan J Sweeney
I just MUST describe my chocolate dinner. We should all be a big fan of chocolate - we're on the only planet with chocolate! So we should honour God's gift to us!
But to the chocolate - I am a sinner and hast sinned on many chocolate levels. I am not only a tempter but an indulgent old bean and a cross breed mix of a chocolate villain.
I’ll try to describe how the influx of tastes with the combination of tamarind with mango, grapefruit and fresh coriander just blew in my mouth... It was the ultimate... I dare not venture completely down the list – there are no words honestly to describe such decadence! So instead I’ll write about each and every sensation I felt for a few of the courses and mouthfuls to entice you. It’s OK – I won’t let you die of a chocolate overdose!
To set the scene, the upstairs restaurant at the popular Providores and Tapas Room in Marylebone High Street, London scented of flowery chocolate. It probably wafted from the kitchen, not strongly scented of course, for that would detract from the ultra-gourmet dining experience. Just enough to kick-start start the senses, subtly becoming aware of the pleasure-seeking to come.
Only about 40 lucky very early bookers had managed to buy a ticket. Paul A Young is recognised as one of the world’s top chocolate chefs. Paul's book ‘Adventures with Chocolate’ was recently awarded “Best Chocolate Book in the World” by the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. http://www.paulayoung.co.uk/creations/ So we were in for a treat, and were truly treated!
Our arrival was greeted with a cocktail, although ‘cocktail’ is not the best word for such a creation called ‘Cocoa nib Sipsmith vodka sour’. Cocoa nibs had been picked specially from a small island only accessible by boat, and soaked in bottles of vodka for one and a half months, with the bottles being turned daily, with other ingredients added each week. Not to manipulate to such a point you can’t taste individual ingredients, but to infuse more aromatically intense flavors. It gave earthy, woody, acidic, steamy, vibrations in the mouth. It did its job of opening and cleansing the palette ready for the gastronomic feast.
While each dish was served, Paul expertly commented on the dish, how and why flavors were chosen to blast us with unique inner displays of tasty fireworks. To bring out the more subtle chocolate taste in the dish, a plate of chocolate used in each dish came as a course ‘side’.
The vegetarian first course used Mast brothers (New York) Chuao 70% chocolate, with grilled aubergine, tamarind caramel, grapefruit, finely grated raw green mango, with coriander, designed to make the taste buds ache and open up ready for the four mains. The wine, a 2008 Seresin Estate, Reserve Chardonnay, Omaka Valley, Central Otago, tempered the tamarind.
I’ll not bore you or tempt you with more descriptions of this matrix of delightful chocolate, unique cooking, and complementary wines. Well, maybe just one more...
The second course of smoked eel was sautéed salsify to give a textured character, toasted sourdough crumbs to add a grainy feel, date chipotle chili puree, smoked and fiery with pomegranate molasses. The Michel Cluizel 50% Mangaroo milk chocolate was thick and creamy, so a hint of very rich cream and freshly cracked coconut cream was added to one part of the dish. It was a complex dish, with a touch of sea-salt added to bring a sea-autumnal taste, with highlights of acid at the top. The 2007 Richardson, Pinot Noir, Cromwell Basin, Central Otago brought out the wild nature of the eel to work that dish with deep vibrancy.
I’ll leave the other three mains and deserts to your imagination.
I wish to god you’d been there! Just know that I indulged you with my indulgence and ate as well on your behalf.
Goodbye for now and have a great mouth...full day!
Allan
PS – just wondered of you could try to cook something like this if/when we meet?
If not, I’ll try my best
Allan J Sweeney © 2011
www.allansweeney.com
By Allan J Sweeney
I just MUST describe my chocolate dinner. We should all be a big fan of chocolate - we're on the only planet with chocolate! So we should honour God's gift to us!
But to the chocolate - I am a sinner and hast sinned on many chocolate levels. I am not only a tempter but an indulgent old bean and a cross breed mix of a chocolate villain.
I’ll try to describe how the influx of tastes with the combination of tamarind with mango, grapefruit and fresh coriander just blew in my mouth... It was the ultimate... I dare not venture completely down the list – there are no words honestly to describe such decadence! So instead I’ll write about each and every sensation I felt for a few of the courses and mouthfuls to entice you. It’s OK – I won’t let you die of a chocolate overdose!
To set the scene, the upstairs restaurant at the popular Providores and Tapas Room in Marylebone High Street, London scented of flowery chocolate. It probably wafted from the kitchen, not strongly scented of course, for that would detract from the ultra-gourmet dining experience. Just enough to kick-start start the senses, subtly becoming aware of the pleasure-seeking to come.
Only about 40 lucky very early bookers had managed to buy a ticket. Paul A Young is recognised as one of the world’s top chocolate chefs. Paul's book ‘Adventures with Chocolate’ was recently awarded “Best Chocolate Book in the World” by the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. http://www.paulayoung.co.uk/creations/ So we were in for a treat, and were truly treated!
Our arrival was greeted with a cocktail, although ‘cocktail’ is not the best word for such a creation called ‘Cocoa nib Sipsmith vodka sour’. Cocoa nibs had been picked specially from a small island only accessible by boat, and soaked in bottles of vodka for one and a half months, with the bottles being turned daily, with other ingredients added each week. Not to manipulate to such a point you can’t taste individual ingredients, but to infuse more aromatically intense flavors. It gave earthy, woody, acidic, steamy, vibrations in the mouth. It did its job of opening and cleansing the palette ready for the gastronomic feast.
While each dish was served, Paul expertly commented on the dish, how and why flavors were chosen to blast us with unique inner displays of tasty fireworks. To bring out the more subtle chocolate taste in the dish, a plate of chocolate used in each dish came as a course ‘side’.
The vegetarian first course used Mast brothers (New York) Chuao 70% chocolate, with grilled aubergine, tamarind caramel, grapefruit, finely grated raw green mango, with coriander, designed to make the taste buds ache and open up ready for the four mains. The wine, a 2008 Seresin Estate, Reserve Chardonnay, Omaka Valley, Central Otago, tempered the tamarind.
I’ll not bore you or tempt you with more descriptions of this matrix of delightful chocolate, unique cooking, and complementary wines. Well, maybe just one more...
The second course of smoked eel was sautéed salsify to give a textured character, toasted sourdough crumbs to add a grainy feel, date chipotle chili puree, smoked and fiery with pomegranate molasses. The Michel Cluizel 50% Mangaroo milk chocolate was thick and creamy, so a hint of very rich cream and freshly cracked coconut cream was added to one part of the dish. It was a complex dish, with a touch of sea-salt added to bring a sea-autumnal taste, with highlights of acid at the top. The 2007 Richardson, Pinot Noir, Cromwell Basin, Central Otago brought out the wild nature of the eel to work that dish with deep vibrancy.
I’ll leave the other three mains and deserts to your imagination.
I wish to god you’d been there! Just know that I indulged you with my indulgence and ate as well on your behalf.
Goodbye for now and have a great mouth...full day!
Allan
PS – just wondered of you could try to cook something like this if/when we meet?
If not, I’ll try my best
Allan J Sweeney © 2011
www.allansweeney.com
